GR221: Crossing The Mallorca Island
Words & images by Lenka Skorepova | @lenda_skorepova
GR221 Overview
GR221 on Mallorca is one of those long-distance trails that quietly has it all – rugged mountains, sea views, remote valleys, stone villages, and the occasional goat casually blocking the path. The route runs roughly 140 km across the Serra de Tramuntana, with over 5,000 metres of elevation gain, and usually takes around 6–9 days depending on your pace and how often you stop to take it all in (or recover).
It’s often described as one of the more accessible multi-day hikes in Europe, but don’t let that fool you – it still asks for solid legs, a bit of patience, and a flexible mindset. Especially when it comes to water, weather, and sleeping arrangements.
Our Equipment
We did the whole trek carrying the Orson Indie Pro 2 tent, which weighs just 1.35kg and packs down into a really small bundle – a huge advantage on a long-distance hike where every gram and every litre of pack space matters. Alongside that, we also used Kea inflatable sleeping mats. They don’t sit in the fully ultralight category, but the 7cm thickness makes a huge difference in comfort after long days on the trail, especially when you’re sleeping on uneven or rocky ground. The included inflation bag also saves a lot of time and effort at the end of the day – no endless blowing into a valve when you’re already exhausted. Together, both became a massive part of the experience. The Indie Pro 2 handled everything from exposed ridge winds to rocky, uneven ground better than we expected. Some nights were definitely more “character-building” than comfortable – especially when we ended up pitching late in strong wind – but the tent held up every time. The Kea mats were just as important after long days on the trail; good sleep quickly becomes non-negotiable when you’re covering 20+ km with a full pack.
Water and Food
Water on GR221 is limited. The trail literally translates as the “dry stone route”, and that name makes sense the moment you leave a village behind. You rely heavily on towns and small villages for refills, so planning your water carries is essential. We found many “water sources” marked on maps completely dry, especially outside of settlements.
Food options are also pretty basic along the way. Small shops exist in some villages, but don’t expect much variety. We carried a fair bit of food from home, which made things easier, especially on the more remote sections.
Camping
Camping officially isn’t allowed outside designated refuges, as the route passes through a protected UNESCO area. In reality, refuges are limited and often fully booked, so many hikers end up being very discreet with wild camping or adapt their stages to reach towns. It definitely requires a respectful, low-impact approach – early starts, late arrivals, and leaving no trace are key.
Day By Day
Day 1: Port d’Andratx – Puig de ses Basses
Distance: 17.5 km
Elevation Gain: 1020 m
After landing in Palma de Mallorca, we stayed one night in a hostel to recover and get ready for the trail. I wasn’t feeling great at the time, so an easy start was definitely needed. The next morning, we took a bus to Port d’Andratx (about an hour), with the stop just a short walk from the start of GR221. The trail immediately kicks uphill straight from the harbour town. Most of the first section is shaded, which was a blessing in the heat. Pretty quickly we got our first views over the sea and hidden beaches you’d never normally reach.
In Sant Elm we got caught in a light shower and ended up waiting it out in a restaurant — good food, and a chance to grab more water before heading into the first proper climb. From there it gets steep and rocky fast. With a heavy pack it was a solid effort, but the views at the top made it worth it. We saw loads of free-roaming goats and sheep along the way. As evening approached, we started looking for a place to sleep. Finding a spot wasn’t easy, but we eventually set up on a flat section along the ridge. It was our first night in the Orson Indie Pro 2 and pitching it in strong wind on an exposed ridge was a bit of a battle— sandy ground, gusts, and improvising with rocks instead of proper anchoring.
We also realised we’d forgotten a lighter, so dinner plans disappeared pretty quickly. Cold tuna it was. Not exactly luxury, and honestly a pretty rough first night with the tent exposed to the wind.
Day 2: Puig de ses Basses – hills above Estellencs
Distance: 23 km
Elevation Gain: 1000 m
After a pretty sleepless night, we woke up exhausted. Breakfast was basically just biscuits, since we still couldn’t make anything warm. The plan was simple: get to Estellencs. The day felt long from the start. We had to cross another ridge right away, and the steep rocky climb with tired legs and no energy was brutal. Thankfully the views from Coll des Quer completely made up for it — one of those moments where you forget how tired you are for a while. The descent towards Estellencs was long and hard on the knees, especially on the gravel road.
We finally made it into town and rewarded ourselves with pizza, which honestly felt like the best meal ever at that point.
We managed to buy a lighter in a tiny shop but supplies here are very limited. After that we climbed above the village and found a hidden flat spot among the bushes for the night, again with amazing sunset views over the sea.
Day 3: Estellencs – ridge above Valldemossa
Distance: 19.3 km
Elevation Gain: 940 m
We finally slept properly — no wind, no chaos. The trail led us through forest sections towards Esporles, where we stopped for food and tried our first ensaïmada — a sweet Mallorcan pastry that basically tastes like soft, sugary heaven. From there we climbed back into the hills above Valldemossa, searching for a place to sleep. We passed Cova Rotja, where some people stay in small stone shelters, but we kept going. In the end we found a tucked-away spot by a stone wall where we could pitch the tent sheltered from view. Another beautiful sunset, again with goats casually keeping us company like it was completely normal.
Day 4: Rest day in Valldemossa
Distance: 4.5 km
Elevation Gain: 82 m
Fatigue and my health caught up with me, so we decided to take a rest day and book a hostel. We dropped down into Valldemossa in the morning. Honestly, this little mountain village ended up being one of the highlights of the entire trek. Narrow cobbled streets, stone houses covered in flowers, and a really calm atmosphere tucked into the Serra de Tramuntana. It’s touristy in parts but still has quiet corners where you can just sit and breathe. From there we took a bus to Sóller and spent the night there recovering.
Day 5: Sóller – Coll des Prat
Distance: 21.5 km
Elevation Gain: 1537 m
This was meant to be the hardest day, but it actually went better than expected. The climb out of Sóller is steep and relentless at first, but then things level out and you reach the reservoirs — Cúber and Gorg Blau. We stopped for lunch at the first one before heading into the more remote mountain terrain. From there, the landscape shifts into rocky, exposed terrain, and the scenery gets absolutely unreal.
Coll des Prat was one of the most incredible places on the whole route. A stone wall runs across the saddle, and there are a few flat spots nearby for camping. We ended up pitching the tent slightly hidden down below rocks. It was windy again, so not the best sleep, but waking up there with the sunrise over the mountains was something else.
Day 6: Coll des Prat – Pollença
Distance: 25 km
Elevation Gain: 426 m
We woke up to sheep bells and sunrise views over the coastline near Pollença — the finish finally in sight. The descent toward Lluc was long and busy, especially as it’s a major pilgrimage site. The monastery area was packed with day tourists and buses, so we didn’t stay long.
From Lluc, we originally planned to camp further along the route, but by mid-afternoon we were already tired and rain was coming in. In the end we made a last-minute call to push all the way to Pollença, and caught a bus for the final stretch. After a full week on the trail, a warm shower and dry bed felt unreal.
Summary
Doing GR221 is less about ticking off kilometres and more about adjusting to the rhythm of the island. Early mornings, long climbs, simple meals, and constantly adapting plans based on water, wind, or where you’ll sleep that night. And having reliable gear makes a huge difference out there. The Orson Indie Pro 2 gave us a solid, weather-resistant home for the trail, and the Kea mats kept recovery bearable after long days. On a hike like this, that combination really matters more than you’d think at the start.
GR221 is the kind of trek that stays with you – not because it’s the hardest, but because it constantly switches between tough, beautiful, frustrating, and completely unforgettable.
